Dr. Michelle Gaines is changing the game in hair science. The Spelman College assistant professor in the Department of Chemistry and Biochemistry has a groundbreaking patent pending — "Quantitative Characterization of Curly Hair Phenotypes" — a first-of-its-kind innovation that brings scientific precision to the study of textured hair. Published under US-2025-0085269-A1, her work is set to revolutionize industries from cosmetic chemistry to biomedical research by offering a new way to analyze and understand curly hair structure at a molecular level.
When asked what inspired her to pursue research at the intersection of science and cultural identity, Dr. Gaines shared . . .
"Ever since I decided to style my hair by showcasing my natural curls, I have been fascinated with the macro-properties that show up throughout the life cycle of a hair style between wash days. I learned that by adding more water to my tresses produced eye-popping curls, and I wanted to understand why it looked so different in the presence of water," said Dr. Gaines.
She recognized an opportunity to merge her personal experiences with her professional expertise in a way that challenged conventional norms in scientific research:
"I also wanted to develop a research platform on a subject that I had unique expertise in, different from my white male counterparts, who specialize in other areas of science. Above all, I noticed the amount of time and effort I put into caring for my hair, which felt like a materials science experiment each wash day, and I wanted to use that time and those experiences for academic exploration. Coupled with learning to style and care for my daughter’s hair, that has a slightly different curl pattern from mine, I decided that it was time to learn more.”
About Dr. Michelle Gaines
Dr. Gaines received her B.S. in Chemical Engineering and Biomolecular Engineering from Michigan State University in 2003 and earned her Ph.D. in Materials Science and Engineering from North Carolina State University in 2008. Her dissertation research focused on the interfacial chemistry of nanoparticles and block copolymer materials. She has a rich, interdisciplinary research background in polymer materials chemistry, nanocomposite interfacial behavior, inorganic molecular chemistry, electronic carbon-based nanomaterials, and the biophysics of collective cell behavior.
Her research focuses on studying the interfacial properties of soft materials. Her research is themed around designing and characterizing the surface chemical properties of synthetic and natural stimuli responsive biomaterials to develop multifunctional biomaterials for regenerative medicine, cancer treatment, and personal care products. The two main biomaterials of interest are polymer microgel particles and human hair fibers. She explores the interfacial chemistry between cells and hydrogels on biological interfaces to develop a synthetic 3D culture microenvironment for controlling cell behavior. By integrating polymer synthesis, materials science, cell biology, and spectroscopy, her research enhances understanding of extracellular matrix interactions and strategies for controlling physiological systems.
Dr. Gaines is deeply committed to fostering the next generation of scientists and scholars through hands-on research and interdisciplinary learning. In recognition of her exceptional contributions to mentorship, she was awarded the 2023 Spelman College Presidential Award for Excellence in Mentorship.
Innovation in Hair Science and Beyond
Dr. Gaines' patented method provides a quantitative approach to analyzing curly hair phenotypes, addressing a longstanding gap in cosmetic and material sciences. By establishing precise metrics for hair structure, the research not only advances the formulation of hair care products tailored for diverse hair types but also informs broader discussions on material behavior in biological systems. She explained the impact she hopes the patent will have . . .
My hope is for this patent to be the first step towards developing more products for different types of curly hair. There are so many types and brands of products that are available on the market, and having a more nuanced hair typing system that consumers and formulators can use to help their waves, curls, coils, twists, and kinks show up how they desire will build customer satisfaction, confidence, and self-love.”
Her patent also marries her broader mission to bridge science and culture. She is developing a new educational initiative called “Hair Academy,” which will allow students and faculty to explore how phenotypic differences in hair produce different material properties. This program will contribute to Spelman College’s legacy as a global leader in producing culturally inclusive thought leaders and innovators in STEM.
Listen and Learn to Georgia Tech Talk: Gaines Gives Great Insight Into the Science Beyond Her Work
The Challenges of Securing a Patent
The road to securing a patent is a rigorous and highly competitive process. Researchers must not only develop an original and applicable innovation but also navigate complex legal and technical barriers to establish intellectual property rights. From extensive documentation and technical disclosures to rounds of review by the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, obtaining a patent requires perseverance and meticulous attention to detail.
For Spelman students and aspiring researchers, Dr. Gaines’ success offers an invaluable lesson in scientific entrepreneurship. By securing a patent, she has not only protected her research but also opened doors for future commercial and academic applications. This achievement underscores the importance of innovation and intellectual property in advancing both scientific discovery and industry progress.
"Michelle's remarkable ingenuity is a testament to why we need more research that recognizes and celebrates the complexities of Black hair, and the critical importance of rooting such conversations in the Black community," said Leyte Winfield, Ph.D., Professor of Chemistry and Biochemistry, Division Chair for the Division of Natural Sciences and Mathematics, and Director of the Cosmetic Science Program.
A Legacy of Innovation and Mentorship
Dr. Gaines' pending patent approval coincides with Spelman College's expansion of its cosmetic science program, marking a significant advancement in the institution's STEM offerings. Initially launched in January 2023 as an online certificate through the eSpelman program, the curriculum experienced a surge in interest, growing from 150 to 750 applications by its fourth term. This overwhelming demand led to the development of an undergraduate concentration in cosmetic chemistry for chemistry majors and a minor in cosmetic science for students pursuing other disciplines, launched in fall 2024.
The alignment of Dr. Gaines' patent with the program's growth underscores Spelman College's commitment to fostering innovation at the intersection of science and culture, preparing students to become leaders in the evolving field of cosmetic science.
"Michelle's work not only paves the way for future advancements but also establishes the foundation for the next generation of Black hair research. We are eager to see more of this groundbreaking work take shape at Spelman, especially through the Cosmetic Science program," said Dr. Winfield.
Dr. Kimberly M. Jackson, chair of the chemistry and biochemistry department at Spelman, praised Dr. Gaines’ groundbreaking contribution:
“I often tell people that the Chemistry and Biochemistry department at Spelman College is one of the world's best-kept secrets, with superstar faculty committed to creating innovative pedagogy and maintaining competitive research programs while mentoring an intellectual community of scholars at its core. We are small yet mighty. It is also incredibly exciting that Dr. Gaines' research program has made an indelible 'mark' in the science history books that has fundamentally changed the world's understanding of the surface chemical properties of curly or textured hair,” said Dr. Kimberly M. Jackson, Ph.D., Chair, Chemistry and Biochemistry.